nouveau bohemian

The dreamy, bohemian, hippy-age movement that has been so prominent the last couples of years has long passed. Now replaced by the mod, 60’s-inspired, futuristic, androgynous craze on the runways of New York, Paris, and Milan fashion weeks, the fashion industry has deviated away from the WAG-clad peasant skirts and tunics that were donned by every housewife in suburban England and America. What has now emerged some may call the “Nouveau Bohemian” movement, or “boho-tec” as it is also sometimes referred to. That unexpected juxtaposition of the romantic, folksy, boho, and the tough, masculine-inspired, tailored techy side. The underground fashion scene in Paris, London, and Madrid, are credited to this revival, but with a more raw approach.

Long gone are the days of scraggly, long, “bed-hair”, now replaced with sharp, sleek, bobs and classic chic make-up. Mary-Kate and Ashley, known for their “bag-lady” aesthetics and their rekindling of this new movement, donned oversized bags, a zealous appeal for Louboutin heels paired with Lover smock dresses, gold American Apparel leggings, leather on leather, and the play with textures such as leather and leather within the same color family which epitomizes this new bold, high-tech, but still bohemian vibe. Not only has the Hollywood royalty embraced this new direction of the Nouveau Bohemian; Nicholas Ghasquiere, known for his bold and daring visions and innovations, caused a stir at Paris fashion week in fall/winter ’08 season when he showed models clad in fringed Palestinian scarves, cinched waists, bright blue tights, tattered dresses in chiffon embedded with streaks of sequins, and bold colorful sandals paired with thick grey ankle socks.

Which may sound like an odd combination, Ghasqueiere’s nod to the artistic and musical underground scene is an interesting one. Criticized for neglecting the artistic and musical teenage crowd, the fashion industry was shocked at the strange references to the clash of street-style. How could such a prestigious house, such as Balenciaga, with such a decadent history of luxury and prestige, pay homage to such an artistic movement?

Mathew Williamson, another designer known for his colorful and bright embellished tunics also took notice of this new trend calling it “the new silhouette evoking technophile and Tokyo reference.” While some might say, this trend is only reserved for the truly artistic at heart and for the courageous theatrical runway presentations, in Paris, where luxury and glamour rule, has deviated away from this uptight sleek play with volumes and instead staying faithful with the its history of honing upcoming talents and avant-garde beliefs. Internationally renowned for being the hub of revolutionary thinkers and creators, the Paris underground music and artistic scene is the canvas for experimenters with layered connotations of expression and rebellion. What might seem to be externally associated with the “bohemian” side, this movement is also reflective of the turbulence and political uncertainty within France. Young men and women show their support for the Palestinian Intifada or Revolution by wearing the “keffayih” or Palestinian scarf, while also streaming against the American sports-wear influence. While the American Apparel in St. Germain in downtown Paris is regularly frequented by Parisians, it is truly the visionaries of French culture who have created their own sort of “nouveau” identity.

The boho-tec vibe does not only translate on the streets of major cities in the world, and on the runways of world-famous designers; the music industry is where the movement has maybe struck hard or stemmed from. Not only is this a way of dressing, the modernist and creative streak of this new movement is a way of life, which is encouraging. The merge of old and new, cheap and expensive, futuristic and bohemian, is wonderfully exuberant.

Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue said perhaps the wisest words about the fashion industry to have been ever said, “You don’t need to even open a newspaper to find out what’s going on in the world, you just need to sit in the front row of a fashion show, and you’ll most certainly know.”

-Nancy